Taylor Swift Resurrects the ‘Old Mine Cut’ Diamond Engagement Ring: What to Know

There’s a new (old) diamond on the engagement ring scene. Thanks to Travis Kelce and Taylor Swift, it’s receiving a second life and a fresh reputation.

Since news broke of the athlete and pop star’s enchanting engagement on Aug. 26, you would have likely heard or read three buzzy words: “old mine cut.”

That would be in reference to the bejeweled bling that the Kansas City Chiefs star perfected alongside designer and Artifex Fine Jewelry founder Kindred Lubeck. Together, the two brainstormed a romantic — and pop star-approved — design boasting a blinding old mine brilliant cut diamond that, within 24 hours, became the most-talked about gemstone of all gemstones.

The happily engaged couple and Lubeck have yet to confirm further details, but as you can imagine, our inboxes are piled high with news about the diamond, while details are surfacing online about what you need to know about the stone. So let’s break it all down.

The major selling point of the old mine cut is its rich history and that antique appeal that experts believe makes it the perfect choice for Swift.

According to Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at the Gemological Institute of America, stones in this category date back to the 1800s, “when each diamond had to be shaped entirely by hand,” he shares with PEOPLE.

While it’s not confirmed what time period Swift’s specific stone was sourced from, Moses adds that “original stones from this era are extremely rare, in part because as new cutting technologies emerged, older stones were often recut or repurposed.” He adds that a “well-preserved original is something collectors and enthusiasts treasure.”

Fine jewelry brand Vrai also describes the old mine cut as a “historic diamond,” popular from the early 18th to the late 19th centuries, corresponding to the British Georgian and Victorian eras.

The cut is also unique in its physical makeup and craft. On its website, Vrai notes that “no two old mine cut diamonds are alike” and that’s owed to the hand-cut technique applied to the style in the past (old-fashioned cutters would follow the shape of the diamond’s natural form). “They lack a standardized and unified look and can be slightly asymmetrical,” reads the brand’s website.

Although for the studied and eagle-eyed, there are a few signature elements that make the overall old mine cut stand out from the rest. These specific diamonds are typically square with rounded corners and feature 58 facets. The top (also known as the table) is known for having a smaller appearance, while the cutlet (or bottom facet of the stone) is larger, alongside most proportions of the silhouette.

The diamonds also have a brilliant glow to them that add to their value. “Antique diamonds are crafted to catch the glow of candlelight,” says Marrow Fine founder and fine jewelry designer Jillian Sassone.

Kelce and Lubeck seemed to know exactly how to take advantage of the diamond’s one-of-a-kind sparkle, as Neil Dutta, managing director of jeweler Angelic Diamonds, shared, “This antique-inspired style is very on trend right now, and the choice of yellow gold gives the ring a warm, romantic feel that suits her perfectly.”

Many experts also agree that sourcing old mine cut diamonds is the more sustainable option in the engagement ring space, which is also currently growing with lab-grown diamonds becoming more affordable and eco-conscious alternatives to mined stones. “Since they’ve already been in circulation for generations, antique diamonds are one of the most sustainable options available,” notes Sassone.

It’s not confirmed yet whether Swift’s exact diamond was plucked from a rare batch; however, even if it wasn’t, brands and designers say that the old mine cut can be replicated on real modern diamonds or those that are manufactured.

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Old mine cut stones truly range in value, depending on the size and carat count, plus any customizations to a ring, but it’s safe to that a diamond radiating with that much shine comes with an expensive price tag.

George Khalife, aka George the Jeweler, predicted Swift’s ring costing anywhere between $3.5 to $5 million with a large chunk of the seven-figure amount coming from the speculated 20 carat value. Although Olivia Landau, fourth-generation GIA-certified gemologist and founder of brand The Clear Cut, shares in a press statement that the estimated cost can range from $40,000 to $100,000. Nonetheless, we’re sure that any special touches Kelce made to his soon-to-be wife’s ring make it priceless.